Trying to Install Amps/Subs

Alrighty, I've been having problems installing my Amps/Subs. I have 2
Sony Xplod 12 Inch Subs, 1200 Watts, and 2 Sony Xplod 1200 Watt Amps. I
connected all the wires, and then turned it on. Nothing. The Subs
didn't turn on. I moved both Subs onto 1 Amp, and when I started the
car, the Blue Illumination Light came on for a second. When I checked
the Manuel, it listed several things that could be wrong.


Blown Fuse

Ground Wire Not Sercurly Connected

To Many Subs On One Amp

Not Getting Enough Power



So, I got 2 questions. I know the Fuse isn't blown, and I know its not
to many Subs on one Amp cause everytime I moved the Subs the light
blinked. I am wondering if my 92 Civic Battery isn't strong enough, or
if I don't have it grounded right. I've moved it to several spots, I
even put it at the same spot I grounded my Stero, but still nothing.
The Ground wire is not Screwed in, but rather taped down with Eletrical
tap.


Any ideas?

 

It's not clear where you are getting power from, so that's the first thing I
would clear up. You should be running the main power feed directly from the
battery with a fuse within 6" of where it connects to the battery. The wire
should be of sufficient gauge for the load (what does each amp draw?). You
should also run a ground wire directly to the battery as well using the same
gauge wire. The ground wire should NEVER be taped in place. It should be a
secure connection. You can't make a secure connection the way you describe.

You should also, now that your stereo system is multi-component, run a new
ground wire from your headunit directly to the battery. All components of
the stereo should share the same ground to avoid a ground-loop. A
ground-loop is the most often cause of alternator whine that everybody
attempts to fix with isolators and filters.

 

If these are the XM-SD22X, they draws 48 amps each at max.

--Gene

 

That's quite a load!

So, something like this for a fuse holder in the engine compartment
http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISEANLFH
With 2 gauge wire.

Here's where a cap would definitely be desired to handle the large transient
load. At 96amps max, obviously it doesn't have to sustain that at all
times. If one is really gonna push the equipment the O.P. mentioned to it's
maximum, then a pair of 1 farad caps is the recommended setup.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/LITLS1003

NOTE: Be VERY careful when dealing with stiffening caps.
Mis-handled/installed they can be dangerous.

(The above links are just a random dealer when searching with google. I
have no association with them nor have I ever purchased from there before.
Links just provided as an example of the parts I am referencing)

 

Some good advice given here, but you'd probably get better results asking in
rec.audio.car

 

Alrighty, I've been having problems installing my Amps/Subs. I have 2

I assume you are feeding power to the amplifier with a large + power
cable that leads straight to the + terminal on the battery, and is
fused right next to the battery. If this is not the case, it should be.

You then ground the the amplifier to the vehicle chassis.

Next up is the "remote" wire. This lead is generally blue on
aftermarket decks. I've seen some decks that have two leads, both a
power antenna lead and a remote lead. The power antenna lead can lead
to confusion, because if you tie the amp to it the amplifier will only
come on when the FM tuner is selected. CD / Tape / Minidisc may trigger
the power antenna down, which means amps go away.

If you are somehow getting audio from the factory deck, then the amp
remote wire should be tied to the accessory power that turns on only
when the vehicle is on.

The remote wire provides a +12 volt feed when the stereo is on. So if
you totally disconnect the remote line from the deck, you should be
able to carefully apply 12vdc and the amp will turn on.

If the amplifier is turning on, but no sound... check the subwoofer
crossover frequency on the deck, the subwoofer volume, perhaps test the
amp with an ipod or other device. Also some modern decks and amps use
different signal levels. I use mostly older car audio equipment from
the mid 90s, and the levels the components used was much much less than
modern decks. So if you have a really old deck the RCA output might be
too low for a brand new amp that expects a really powerful signal on
the RCAs. The reason they did this was supposidly to get rid of noise.
Of course, if they really wanted to get rid of noise, moving to a
balanced signal would be the way to do it, it's what all stage
equipment uses.

Anyways. Perhaps something useful.