valve adjustment 2001 CR-V

I am going to adjust the valve clearance on both of my 01 CR-V's, before I
remove the Valve cover there is another item that has to be removed I
beleive its called the intake plentium.

Before I remove(plentium) it by removeing the 4 fasteners, does anyone know
if there is a gasket where the plentium meets the intake manifold. I am
concerend that if there is a gasket, it will tear.

I don't think that the owners manual mentions checking valve clearance on
the 01 models, as the in previous models, I have heard its a good idea to
check the clearance.

I have a Haynes manual but it only covers 00 models and there is no mention
of the plentium when removeing the valve cover.

thanks

Tom

http://usera.imagecave.com/TomF/HondaValvecover001.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/TomF/HondaValvecover002.jpg

 

You should visit the local Honda dealership and talk to the person at the
parts counter. Ask him to show you the diagram related to the plentium.
The diagram should clearly show whether or not there is a gasket and the
part number of the gasket. If there is a gasket in that location, I advise
you to buy a new one. It's a great idea to replace any gaskets instead of
making use of making use of the old gaskets. Old gaskets are more likely
to develop leaks than new gaskets.

 

Hey, "Jason"...what is a plentium?


Anyhoo, for the OP, look it up yourself at Majestic.
http://tinyurl.com/azgm6

 

That's part of the computer.

"Gee, what a maroon!" B. Bunny

Tom

Only the mediocre can always be at their very best.

Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 - Registered

 

A "plenum" is a chamber to connect a duct to a manifold. My old Nissan had
one between the throttle body and the intake manifold. What a hassle! It had
to be removed to change the plugs, and it had wiring bundles supported on it
and various vacuum and cooling lines.

Mike

 

-----------------------------

Since that chamber is meant to be removed on occasion, the gaskets are
surely some kind of synthetic rubber or nylon, like inside the air
filter box. They will be reusable. Just slip it off and do your thing....
'Curly'

 

One of many, no doubt.

 

P.S. When you do the adjustments, make sure to set them to the loose
side of the spec, since they tend to tighten on the first generation
CR-v. Wouldn't hurt to write a note in your owner's manual that says:
Every 30,000 miles / 50,000 Km. Same interval for rear differential
fluid, formerly called CVT Fluid, now called Dual Pump Fluid.

http://www.hondasuv.com/stg/viewtopic.php?t=9628&

 

I called a Honda dealer today and there are no gaskets in the plenum, or
where it mounts to the intake, the book says not to mess with the valves
unless they are noisy, as they wear they get tighter, I also believe its
bullshit to have to be adjusting valves when there are non-adjustable
hydraulic.


With all the spark plugs out I am going to try and rotate the engine with
the p/s pump nut, as I am a concerned with using the crankshaft pulley nut
and it coming loose,and not having the ability to re-torque it, if I can
rotate the engine with the p/s nut I will check the adjustment on the
valves, if not off to the dealer I guess.

I intend to replace the spark plugs with NGK, the gap in the owners manual
calls for 0.04 gap, doesn't seem like much of a gap.


Tom

 

The last car I had with hydraulic lifters (an '84 Nissan 300ZX) suffered
from collapsed lifters. I made the mistake of only replacing the collapsed
ones the first time, then when more collapsed I replaced the rest. A good
waste of three afternoons the first time, one long afternoon the second. I
hate hydraulic lifters now.

Mike

 

-------------------------

Your dealer KNOWS the manual is wrong (the Euro version of the manual is
correct) . . The valves on a Generation 1 CR-V need to be checked every
30,000 miles. Don't worry about the crankshaft pulley bolt, it would
take about 300 Ft/lb to get it loose

--

To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.

Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
you should not play any notes you have left over. -

 

No kidding! We have had many threads about the heroic measures necessary to
get that bolt loose.

Mike

 

LOL LOL LOL LOL !!!!!

You're new here aren't you? That bolt IS NOT COMING LOOSE WITHOUT A MAJOR
FIGHT! Don't even BEGIN to worry about THAT.

When the day comes for you to REMOVE that bolt you will curse it for not
wanting to come loose.

Why not?

What model of plug does it specify?
Does the specified NGK model number end in "11" or "10"?

 

TeGGerR.

What expertise do you bring to this forum other than the ....The Unofficial
Honda/Acura FAQ? How many years have you been a factory trained tech?

The spark plugs nunbers end in 11, the gap I posted was out of the owners
manual, I belive what they wanted to state as the gap is 0.043 as I found
in a Haynes manual that goes up the year 2000,the plug number in the owners
manual is a NGK ZFR6F-11, weather thats correct or not I don't know.

Regarding the nut on the crankshaft pulley it depends on who you talk to as
far as how tight it is, somesay 300ft lbs the Haynes manual says torgue it
to 130 ft lbs.

Thanks

Tom

 

The torque required to break the $%@#*&! thing loose is certainly *far*
greater than 130 ft-lbs, although that is probably the official spec for
tightening. I am among those who believe it tightens itself either from the
engine turning or from heat and cold cycles, or both. I know I have put a
500 ft-lb impact on one, with a regulator at the tool to eliminate drop in
the hose and a special holding tool for the pulley, and barely broke it
loose. Many are the people who wondered if it was left-hand threaded (it's
not) or if it is Loc-Tited (it's not). TeGGeR knows whereof he speaks - it
ain't going to come loose from turning the engine with it. That would be
like removing lug nuts with your fingers.

Mike

 

Many years experience being a driveway grease monkey.

If you know how to use Google Groups, you'll see how amusing it is that you
worry about the bolt coming loose. Getting that bolt off is the most
difficult thing about timing belt changes.

Exactly zero. Just like you.

11 means 1.1mm, or .043".

Check your underhood EPA sticker. It will also specify a particular type of
plug.

300 ft lbs? Nonsense. Torque is more like 130. It's corrosion that clamps
it in place. You need extreme force to break that seal before the bolt will
move.

 

thanks to all for there input.

Tom