Valve adjustment

I have a 96 honda accord lx non vtec. I went to the dealership becasue it
sounds like my engine was ticking. So they sound my valves have to be
adjusted. I have a haynes manual. I looked at it and it seems like its
pretty hard to do. Is it really that hard to adjust the valves? Any
suggestions or tips or help?

 

First time you do it is the hardest. If you have a feel for what it is
you are trying to end up with, and have had the valve cover off and on,
it should be something you could try.
See if you want to invest in the little hand tool that makes the
actual adjustment easier. It combines a wrench and screwdriver in one
tool. bob

 

Valve adjustment for all Hondas is a trivial task - but only
with proper tools and time. Following their procedure is
important. Engine should be overnight cooled since any engine
heat does significantly change adjustment. Get a feeler gauge
from someplace, like Sears, with a 45 degree bend - because
some intake valves cannot be properly adjusted using a
straight feeler gauge (as that mechanic tried to do). Have
the 10 mm close end wrench and good, regular sized, flat blade
screwdriver to loosen and tighten the adjusting screw.
Holding screw with screwdriver as locking nut is tightened. A
19 mm socket and breaker bar to rotate engine for each valve.

If the previous 'mechanic' did not screw up valve
adjustment, then each valve adjust would adjust less than '5
minutes on the hour'. Adjustment so bad as to make loud
ticking is more often due to an above described mechanic.
Found one mechanic's adjustment so poor that some (obstructed)
intake valves were between '60 and 90 minutes' too loose. In
the entire life of a Honda, no valves required more than a
total '10 minutes on the clock' change - which is why a
previous mechanic is more often suspect as reason for noise.

Best to use three feeler gauges. One that is slightly too
thin, one that is proper size, and a third being too thick.
Adjustment numbers for intake and exhaust found on an engine
hood decal. After adjusting to the middle gauge, then a thin
gauge should feel decidedly loose and the thick gauge
difficult to drive between rocker arm and valve. This is how
to confirm or 'get the feel' for each valve adjustment.

Where is the #1 Top Dead Center mark on timing chain wheel?
Start by marking that notch with red nail polish - faint mark
becomes easy to see. Also write with magic marker the numbers
'2' and '3' on timing gear's ribs to remember which position
is for those valves.

A breaker bar and 19 mm socket is best for turning engine
using provided 'wheel well' hole. Before opening hood, turn
steering wheel fully left to access the hole. After doing each
valve once, then rotate engine a second time just to confirm
each adjustment, so that proper size gauge still slides and
the 'too thick' gauge sticks.

 

thanks for the help but i think im going to have someone do it. Im scared
when it comes to the inside of the engine stuff know what i mean. In plus i
dont have all those tools. THanks or the advice though.

 

Each tool was only a few dollars and available most
everywhere - including Kmart. This is one job that virtually
anyone can do - and really not possible to screw up. Even if
it gets done wrong - valves too loose, car will still drive
without damage to dealer. If this task is too difficult or if
tools not available, then don't do anything to a honda; always
get a mechanic. Valve lash being a most simple job, quite
educational. Requires patience and time.

 

Sure it is, it's possible to screw anything up including a valve
adjustment. I've seen techs get the valve cover gasket on wrong which
caused oil leaks on the timing belt.

I've also seen techs leave the lock nut loose. If this nut backs off all of
the way it can cause physical damage to the engine especially the camshaft.

By the way, buying ultra inexpensive tools from KMart is not a good
investment. Quality tools will pay for themselves over the years that you
own them. I've had some cheap plastic screwdriver handles literally break
apart in my hand as I was using them.

Eric

 

Well i foudn some tools, i got the feeler gauge i was reading and i have the
concept of adjusting the valves. What confuses me is the trurning of the cam
shaft. What is a breaker bar? Also do i have to replace the gasket?

 

http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/tools.asp?parent=1I1418P1025M0

Also do i have to replace the gasket?

Always a good idea.

 

Valve cover gasket required replacement when automakers were
more concerned with their costs than the owner's problems.
Today, a valve cover gasket is a neoprene type material that
makes leaks and replacement irrelevant. Valve cover cannot be
attached backwards or incorrectly. Once those four valve
cover nuts are tightened, then valve cover is sealed and
restored - without a new gasket.

Usually removing a cover (after nuts are removed) requires
some gentle prying. Start by separating cover from plastic
timing chain cover - the semicircular round part of valve
cover on your right (left side of car). Valve cover will then
simply peal off the engine. Best not to pry between aluminum
engine and valve cover so as to not dimple the engine's
aluminum.

A hole in wheel well permits turning engine crank shaft - to
rotate pistons and valve cam. Breaker bar (or rachetted
socket wrench) is simply a long shaft that attaches to a 19 mm
socket via a 3 or 4 inch extension. I use a 1/2" drive
socket, extension, and wrench; but 3/8" may also work. (Then
with a 17 mm socket and that breaker bar, I also have a better
wrench, if necessary, to replace a flat tire.)

Forgot to mention that engine must be out of gear (or in
park) so that 19 mm socket can freely rotate engine
crankshaft. This 19 mm socket simply attaches to a bolt at
end of engine crankshaft. Third party maintenance manual
would have pictures of this bolt and pulley wheel (timing
chain pulley wheel connects timing chain from cam to
crankshaft). Turn front wheels fully to left and view that
access hole.

 

so when i take the valve cover off the timing belt cover comes off as well
to acces the bolt that turns the crank shaft?
Sorry about being a pain in the rear but i think this will help out anybody
thats like me. Again i appreciate the help.

 

I don't want to sound condescending, but if you need to be asking
these types of questions here, you should give serious consideration
to having someone knowledgeable walk you through this the first time.
I've done this several times with friends. There are too many ways to
do it wrong and some of these could cause serious damage

 

Not to mention, "Buy a Manual For Your Car!"

Jeez.

 

i have a manual for my car and i just havent gottten the chance to look
again im sure when i look at it again it will all make sense.

 

Nothing posted says anything about removing timing belt
cover. Don't jump to conclusions. Its just not the rocket
science you are making it out to be. Posted was:

This assumes your shop manual has pictures. If not, then
get the Honda manual which includes many pictures and other
information that third party shop manuals abbreviate. Third
party shop manuals are usually abbreviated copies of the
automaker's original manual.

There is no mystery about rotating the crankshaft. Did you
ever replace a tire? Turn crankshaft clockwise - as if
restoring nuts that hold new tire to vehicle. Its really no
different than turning a screw. You are making a trivial
'rotation' into a major campaign.

Each post assumes you were looking at those shop manual
pictures. One picture even shows the crankshaft being
manually rotated with a wrench. Without those pictures, you
cannot appreciate all that was posted.