wiring a 350w inverter directly to battery? help.

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Elan7e Owner, Feb 12, 2004.

  1. Elan7e Owner

    Elan7e Owner Guest

    Hi guys,

    I was planning to run a few of my gadgets in mr car (1991 civic 1.5L manual
    std-hatchback, no frills) and bought a inverter because I neither have nor
    want to spend the ridiculous prices they ask for buying ciggarette adapters
    for each device, AND didn't think I would have been able to fit 5 of them
    together anyway. The fact that my vanilla car never even came with a
    ciggarette lighter socket is another story. I also upgraded my battery to a
    nice optima yellow top of 51R size.
    I concluded that it would be a much better investment to just buy an
    inverter, into which I could plug any device with its own ac adapter that it
    already comes with. (though not as clean as the other solution, with
    inverter bulk, adapter bulk and DC-AC-DC conversion. ok whatever.)
    Well now that I have it, I am not sure how to wire it in. I found that the
    wire that feeds the lighter plug is live, even though there is no lighter.
    So I was thinking of wiring the invereter to taht, but didn't think it
    would handle the current requirements that I plan. Lets see: laptop 60w,
    battery charger 20w, camera 20w, GPS 1w etc etc..so I expect a total of
    around 120W power. Which is 120w/12v = 10Amps approx. ---> So I would design
    for 15-20 amps.

    So my question is about the practical part: what wire(gauge etc) to use,
    and how to physically wire it to the battery? Inverter stays in the cab, so
    the wire would need to come throught the firewall. Is it possible to not run
    two full wires to the battery and maybe ground one side somewhere closer
    inside the car? Or is this totally unadvisable for large currents?
    Also do I need a fuse or any other electronics? Where should I put it?
    Anyone done this in their car?

    Please help!
    Thanks,
    Ak
     
    Elan7e Owner, Feb 12, 2004
    #1
  2. Elan7e Owner

    Woody Guest

    350 watts at 12 volts is around 30 amps. Too much for the convenience outlet
    in the car. Most cars don't have a cigarette lighter any more, only the
    convenience outlet which is fused at 15 amps. Check the install instructions
    for the inverter. It should give you wire sizes and directions. Make sure it
    is fused close to the battery.
     
    Woody, Feb 13, 2004
    #2
  3. Elan7e Owner

    Randolph Guest

    12V to 120V inverters are switch-mode inverters. This means that they
    rapidly change between drawing virtually no current and drawing quite a
    bit of current. If you are drawing an average of 15 Amps, the peak
    current will be much higher. Decoupling caps in the inverter smooth this
    out somewhat, but inverter manufacturers skimp on the capacitors.

    What this means is that for purposes of wire heating, you can follow the
    charts for AWG, wire length and current draw. However for efficient
    operation of the inverter you need to bump up the wire gauge a bit. with
    respect to wire heating you need a minimum of 12 AWG regardless of
    length. 12 AWG wire can handle 15 A without overheating.

    You can run a ground lead to the battery, or ground the the body
    somewhere in the cabin. You can use an existing ground stud, shared with
    other components, but do not tap in to an existing ground wire.
    Personally I think it is cleaner to run both power and ground leads all
    the way to the battery. No extra work and minimal extra expense. On my
    Civic there is an under-hood fuse box, and a fat wire from the battery
    goes into this fusebox and is connected with a screw terminal. Very
    convenient spot to tap into for your own high-power accessories.
    Remember to put in a fuse close to where you tap into battery power. If
    you plan on dimensioning for 15A, I would use a 20A fuse. For ground I
    use the same chassis-mounted stud that the battery ground lead goes to.

    If you go with two wires to the battery you will end up with a fairly
    significant wire length round trip. That, together with the peaky nature
    of the current draw would lead me to suggest 8 AWG wire. It is
    conventional to use yellow for positive, unswitched supply and black for
    ground.

    Often times there are unused holes in the firewall, plugged with rubber
    plugs. Great place to pull wires through. Remember to use a grommet
    wherever you pull wires through sheet metal. If you go to
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com or
    http://www.hparts.com/instructions.php3 you can find installation
    instructions for accessories to your car. Read through them as they
    often give locations of unused holes in the firewall. The instructions
    for security systems are a particularly good source for that kind of
    info.

    If you can't find an unused hole, you need to drill your own. Be careful
    not to put holes in important stuff on the back side of where you are
    drilling! A somewhat uglier approach is to look for the rubber grommet
    where one of the car's main wire harnesses go through the firewall. If
    the grommet is large you can sometimes punch a small hole in it next to
    the factory wires and pull your own wires through that way.
     
    Randolph, Feb 13, 2004
    #3
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